pfaffies-digest Saturday, 26 April 1997 Volume 01 : Number 1347 From: Jackie Bartick Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 14:08:33 -0700 Subject: Re: PFAFF: FEET FOR THE PFAFFIES (LONG) Hi, You'all I had so many requests for the different applications for the feet, I have decided to send them to the list. I can't believe so many are having mail problems. I had some too a few weeks back.. Hope they are resolved soon. No need to thank me, I'm pleased to do it. The contribution for this information is a collection that many Pfaffies contributed to. I just compiled them into one folder. JackieB... jbartick@ix.netcom.com HERE THEY ARE: Think the multi functions for the feet is a great suggestion. I'll even add one that was passed to me by SewLadyLiz.. Seems I've had the fringe foot since pfirst Pfaff, 10 yrs ago.. Used it very little, but Liz told me I could use it to sew on buttons..GREAT! Was always a pain to get machine ready to sew on buttons, then holding them in place was tricky, given most "holed" buttons aren't flat..But I tried using the Fringe foot, and it works wonders..I don't even drop the feed dogs, just punch up the button number.. - ----------------------------------- I like to use the fringe foot for sewing shoulder pads into clothing. It give you an automatic shank so there is no "bulging" and dimple where the pad was sewn in. I love this foot for practical and fun purposes. It was suggested that we start a discussion on the various feet and how we use them. Since I do mock flat felled seams and not real ones, I don't use the flat fell feet for this purpose. They are handy for guiding narrow ribbon while stitching the ribbon on with a double needle. Experiment with the different width needles and ribbon. The ribbon can be couched down with a single needle and decorative stitches, also. ********** Think the multi functions for the feet is a great suggestion. I'll even add one that was passed to me by SewLadyLiz.. Seems I've had the fringe foot since pfirst Pfaff, 10 yrs ago.. Used it very little, but Liz told me I could use it to sew on buttons..GREAT! Was always a pain to get machine ready to sew on buttons, then holding them in place was tricky, given most "holed" buttons aren't flat..But I tried using the Fringe foot, and it works wonders..I don't even drop the feed dogs, just punch up the button number.. ********* << Edge Stitch foot on the list. Of course, it is a natural for edge stitching, but I also use it for ditch stitching. The blade on the foot is positioned so that one can sew in center needle position, so where the blade goes >> Hi all I don't know if we are talking about the same foot or not,but I took a class on feet and we used the knit edge foot for piping...Now I'm talking about tiny piping the kind you use on baby clothes. I make doll clothes and I do a lot of piping you must use true bias, but I use crochet cotton or string,it makes a vey tiny piping and looks good around tiny baby collars also. Pearl cotton in a darker pink inside white batiste is perfect..italso works to use tricot. A stripe cut on the bias makes a cute trim. I find I have more control with this foot than with a zipper foot. - ----------------------------------------- I have the single hole or straight stitch plate and love it. No problems with fabric "falling" into the large hole of the standard plate. If you have a 7570 with embroidery unit, you can also use it for hoop embroidery. I have no skipped stitches with it and no '"birds nests" ever. I use it for free motion machine quilting because it prevents the needle from "wobbling" when you sew at a high speed. Really good for sewing light weight fabrics like batist and challis. It is a must have accessory. No, I am not a dealer!! - -------------- I bought the round hole plate because a friend had nicer designs sewn out with it, using the fantasy unit. But I also like it for the sheer fabric. The fabric does not tend to go down the hole as easily as with the zig zag plate. Barb in CA - ------------------------------------------ Hi, I do have and use the round hole plate. I use it in the situation you describe, when asking the machine to do upholstery work(eight layers of fabric at the junction of some seam,welt,cushion boxing areas - LOVE, this machine)and, when embroidering. Something you might try, if you don't have the straight stitch throat plate - - use the different needle positions of the straight stitch - by that I mean left, or right needle position adjustment. I would start testing on your fabric at the left 6 or 7. Keep in mind, you'll need to find a different reference point on the right side of the needle to act as a guide for seam allowance depth. I hope this helps. Casey 7570, PCD_WIN 2.0a - ------------------------------- I do a lot of quilting and use the round hole (straight stitch) plate all the time for piecing. It's pricey, but worth it. No more bunching in the plate when working with small seams or lightweight fabrics. Just figure out a way,with a sticky note or something, to remind yourself to change the plate.Decorative stitches are not good for your needle if you forget. Trust me on this one! :( - --------------------------------------------------------- Edge Stitch foot came out, I also have this foot...the instructor was sharing with me a project she did. She took all her scrap polar fleece and joined them together with this foot using the wooly thread with decorative stitching for her daughter for college. She said it turned out just wonderful and her daughter loves it. I have just played with the foot, basically kind of all I have been doing with this machine is playing with the different things! :) I am wondering if anyone has the round hole needle plate? I know that a few times I was straight stitching very lightweight fabrics it tends to want to get caught in the plate hole or pucker a bit, it seems very large opening to me..has anyone found this to be true, and if so do you do something different rather than the round hole needleplate? Lucinda mailto:Honesty@sprintmail.com "The words of the wise heard in quiet are better than the shouting of a ruler among fools" - ------------------------------------------- Edge Joinging Foot: I have found it to be invaluable in topstitching binding-stitches right on the very edge for a beautiful finish. - ------------------- When using the round hole needle plate press the double needle button on your machine to keep you from accidently going to a stitch with a width. When I turn my machine off with that button still on it still stays locked when I turn my machine - ------------------------ It was suggested that we start a discussion on the various feet and how we use them. Since I do mock flat felled seams and not real ones, I don't use the flat fell feet for this purpose. They are handy for guiding narrow ribbon while stitching the ribbon on with a double needle. Experiment with the different width needles and ribbon. The ribbon can be couched down with a single needle and decorative stitches, also. - ---------------------------------------- Edge Stitch foot on the list. Of course, it is a natural for edge stitching, but I also use it for ditch stitching. The blade on the foot is positioned so that one can sew in center needle position, so where the blade goes >> Hi all I don't know if we are talking about the same foot or not,but I took a class on feet and we used the knit edge foot for piping...Now I'm talking about tiny piping the kind you use on baby clothes. I make doll clothes and I do a lot of piping you must use true bias, but I use crochet cotton or string,it makes a vey tiny piping and looks good around tiny baby collars also. Pearl cotton in a darker pink inside white batiste is perfect..italso works to use tricot. A stripe cut on the bias makes a cute trim. I find I have more control with this foot than with a zipper foot. - ----------------------------- One of my latest purchases for the 1475 was the edge joining foot. It is great for topstitching! Just run that metal strip along the edge of the fabric or down the seam and you can get really close to the edge, if you want to. Just remember to keep your eyes at the beginning of the metal strip! I use the fringe foot for: 1. attaching buttons that need a shank, 2. attaching shoulder pads to the seam allowances, 3. joining scrap pieces of batting to make bigger pieces I don't do the buttons or the batting stuff much, but I make and sew shoulder pads for almost everything I wear. To join to the batting, I sew right along the edges, and then fold out the bottom piece. I have never had this seam show through in a quilt--but then I quilt my pieces rather heavily and go for the puckered look.-Kathy - ----------------------------------------- It was suggested that we start a discussion on the various feet and how we use them. Since I do mock flat felled seams and not real ones, I don't use the flat fell feet for this purpose. They are handy for guiding narrow ribbon while stitching the ribbon on with a double needle. Experiment with the different width needles and ribbon. The ribbon can be couched down with a single needle and decorative stitches, also. - ------------------------------------------------- I also have this foot...the instructor was sharing with me a project she did. She took all her scrap polar fleece and joined them together with this foot using the wooly thread with decorative stitching for her daughter for college. She said it turned out just wonderful and her daughter loves it. I have just played with the foot, basically kind of all I have been doing with this machine is playing with the different things! :) - ------------------------------------------------ << e: PFAFF: Pfringe Pfeet >> At the class I took on new feet, theyhad us use regular white thread with the fringe foot and two pieces of fabric..sew a row neer the edge......Then carfully open the pieces of fabic flat this make threae going down like a flat lock stitck the use prog.2 or any forward back stitch right down thecenter it made a cute decor for a pocket or whatever. I used rayon and put it on a doll bodice. Kaye - --------------------------------------------- This is how to ruffle without a ruffler. (Or if you aren't in the mood to set up the ruffler.) Get out your long rectangular buttonhole foot. Install as usual, BUT push the foot all the way to the back. This will look weird because of course, you couldn't do a buttonhole, but that's not the object. Now, take your fabric strips or whatever that are to be ruffled. (If you are ruffling a strip, it's best to do the hem, add embroidery and/or lace before ruffling.) Now tighten up the upper tension and lengthen the stitch length. These can be adjusted according to how much tightness you want in the ruffle. Thinner fabrics ruffle better, they always do. Now just ruffle away. The fabric piles up under the buttonhole foot, and after a bit, you can release it and let it pile up again. Just keep doing this until you have a strip long enough to use for the project. I find this easier if I just make a long strip and attach it, rather than trying to calculate exactly how long my strips should be to fit where they are intended to go, but I also do ruffling on the ruffler this way ,it's just easier for me. Will this replace the ruffler? No, it has more choices. But for a lot of what I do, this is perfectly sufficient and doesn't have all the adjustments to have to fuss with. A twitch or two on SL and tension is all it takes. - -------------------------------------------- This last Pfaff club meeting introduced me to a new pintuck foot. It was designed by Philip Pepper & is really neat. It is reversible (the entire foot can go on either way) with a flange on one side. Underneath it has several grooves, but using the two outside ones for pintucks enables you to sew pintucks the exact distance apart to place a decorative stitch between them. You can use the old cording blades with it if you want to, or do corded tucks, etc. I really like it. It was only $12 (cheap for a Pfaff foot) and will also work on the New Home even though the ankle on the New HOme is narrower than the Pfaff. Nancy in Riverside, CA I had recently purchased the cap hoop and was able to find some time to try it out last night. I had bought 3 hats to play around with. I hooped the first hat and then, after finally finding a design that fit within the measurements (I think 80 x 100), I embroidered a horse and rider. It turned out rather nice. After I did this hat, I got to wondering why I had to use this special hoop. I got out the 120 hoop and hooped some tear away stabilizer in it. I then applied spray adhesive to it and stuck the next hat on it. It was very easy to center the hat. I put the hat on with the bill of the hat pointing to the bottom. I was then able to use a 120 design. One thing that I did after I chose my design but before I actually started stitching was to use the area preview function to see what area the design would cover. Some of the hats have eyelets sewn into them or even a covered button on top. On one hat, I used the heart made of flowers and I put my niece's name, Faith, in the middle of the heart. The hat is a dark pink, and I used the original colors recommended so it turned out very nice with the pink, yellow and blue flowers. Has anyone else used this method to do hats? Is there anyone who has the hat hoop that can give me any reasons or examples of why I needed this attachement to do hats? I just want to find out any known pros and cons for both methods. Thanks.